Unicorn, a small electric fantail launch

Varnish Nearly everything is varnished. Lot's of education and frustration with the varnishing. I never learned how to get a perfectly smooth, bubble-free surface. Rubbing hard with brown paper bags after the varnish has dried smooths out the bubbles, but they are still visible. I put four coats on the plumbing cover, bow foot well floor, gunwales, and helm station post; six coats on the benches and table; and eight coats on the rear deck. Here's a picture that shows the true color of the hull in early morning sunlight, which has been a rare thing lately! I made two chairs out of White Oak boards that I bought in the 1980's to make a boat out of. The chairs fit in the open bow area of the boat, but can also be used as beach chairs. Obviously they are not done in these pictures. The head rests will be rounded over and then everything will be sanded and varnished. The long legs sticking out the back have been shortened because they looked silly. The seats are from the Eckerso...

 Everything is Installed! Very short post. The picture above shows the fully assembled (minus the canopy) boat. Note the unusual jam cleats on the rear deck. I modified a design that I stumbled upon online that the poster said he could not find any reference for who designed the cleat. They are made from "wormy" American Chestnut. First a picture of clamping the deck front molding lamination. The wood is more of the mahogany that was used in the keel and the deck itself. The molding is 4 layers of just over 1/8" thick. Lot's of small challenges with this glue up, and I learned an important lesson (that I knew already but decided to ignore...): Make a jig, glue up the lamination on the jig first, then put it in place. This probably wouldn't have actually worked because the deck is not flat -or symmetric! The small brass screws are holding little oak blocks under the deck. The lamination is epoxied and screwed to the blocks and to the edge of the deck. You can also...